49 Days Of San Francisco: DAY ONE

Friday, August 12

The Dogpatch

Why explore the micro neighborhoods of San Francisco?

According to The San Francisco Chamber of Commerce there are 48 different neighborhoods in San Francisco. If you have spent a little time in The City you will know that there actually are closer to 100. What about places like the TenderNob? (where the Tenderloin and Nob Hill meet) or Baja Noe? (the stretch on Guerrero where Noe Valley and The Mission intersect). We have The Mint Slope (where Market runs through the Federal Mint Building), Valencia Bottoms (Valencia from 15th down to Market), La Lengua (the stretch On Mission St from Cesar Chavez to 30th) and FolSoMa (Folsom between 7th and 8th). As a San Franciscan it is fascinating to see these Microhoods pop up here and there and see how they serve as a statement of individuality for the people that inhabit them. So, I decided to start this project with one of the oldest Microhoods in the City and examine how it is currently experiencing changes that may be the inevitable result of progress. This neighborhood is The Dogpatch.

Where is the Dogpatch?

Located east of Potrero Hill, the Dogpatch is roughly bordered by Mariposa St and 23rd St to the north and south as well as Pier 70 and the 280 freeway to the east and west. The Dogpatch could be considered the original live work mixed space of San Francisco. It has always been a thriving family neighborhood with the heavy industry aspects only a stone's throw distance away (over on Pier 70 and Potrero Point). The area immediately south of The Dogpatch was once known as Butchertown. The story goes that the scraps from all the meat packing factories were thrown over to this side of town and that attracted a lot of wild animals including wild dogs, hence the name The Dogpatch. The Dogpatch has been around since the 1850's. It escaped the 1906 San Francisco Earthquake and Fire and has remained virtually unchanged for 100 years, yet this area is now undergoing one of it's greatest transformations to date.

The Changes

North of The Dogpatch is Mission Bay, the fastest growing and newest neighborhood of San Francisco. Mission Bay's exponential growth (thanks to the many Biotechnology companies that have moved in over the last couple of years) is leading to the growth (and some fear, gentrification) of the Dogpatch. People are worried that this will become The Marina of The East (one of SF's yuppiest neighborhoods) and lose the flavor and grittiness that makes The Dogpatch unique. In an effort to preserve its history The Dogpatch has been designated a Historical Neighborhood, thus restricting what kind of development can occur on this area.

Exploring The Dogpatch

After coercing my friend Misty into joining me into my very first outing, we took a nice drive over to 22nd Street, the heart of The Dogpatch. You will find everything here from coffee shops, wine bars, restaurants, and retail stores.

We first visited Rickshaw Bagworks. We were lucky enough to meet Founder Mark Dwight during our visit and he offered us a tour of his factory. Five minutes with Mark and you can see how passionate he is about what he does and about the company he created, all the while trying to convey the importance of doing things locally and in a sustainable manner.

Continue along 22nd and you will see a large yellow building. This is Piccino Restaurant and Coffee Bar. Really overpriced and nothing particularly remarkable about it, I still was able to go in and get my Latte on.

We had better luck just across the street with Just For You Cafe for some tasty Beignets (and also some spicy Mexican Food)

I was still craving something else and alas, my answer came in the form of Ice Cream. Mr and Mrs Miscellaneous has been at this locale for a little over a year (3rd and 22nd) but it has already ranked among the best Ice Cream places in the City (up there with Mitchells, Bi-Rite and Humphry Slocombe). The Rosemary and Olive Oil Ice Scream was delicious. (yes, really)

Other notable places to visit on The Dogpatch are Serpentine on 3rd and 22nd (for a good brunch or a tasty burger) and The Dogpatch Saloon, which has a very vibrant Jazz Scene on Sunday afternoons.

While you are here, stroll down the Hell's Angels Motorcycle Clubhouse made famous by Hunter S. Thompson's novel Hell's Angels: The Strange and Terrible Saga of The Outlaw Motorcycle Gangs. This book did not sit well with The Hells Angels but it is a quick and entertaining read. More on Hunter S. Thompson later.

Potrero Point

Cross 3rd St and head toward the waterfront and you will find yourself on what was once the neighborhood of Irish Hill (on Potrero Point). All that remains of these area is a small serpentine hill (California's State Rock) after the shipyard expansion tore down all the shacks and hotels built for sailors in the 1800s.

Continue down Illinois and you will find the decayingly beautiful buildings that were once part of Pier 70 (pictured below). This area is expected to become a new hub for restaurants and retail in days to come.