DAY TWO - The Ferry Building and Dolores Park

Saturday, August 13

The Ferry Building

History

The Ferry Building (in its current form) has been around since 1898. Its architecture was a direct response (backlash) against the ornate, elaborate, somewhat imposing motifs of Victorian Architecture and instead it borrowed on style from such places as the Cathedral of Seville and the original Madison Square Garden Tower. It survived 1906 (Earthquake and Fire) and has undergone a number of major changes since, most notably from its original intended purpose as a major transportation hub to a now world renowned tourist attraction and food mecca.

In the early 50's a double deck freeway was built in front of the Ferry Building and effectively divided and isolated the Building from the rest of the City. The Ferry Building felt into terrible decay after this and would have been lost forever (there were plans to tear it down) had it not been for the Loma Prieta Earthquake. In the early afternoon of October 17, 1989 the San Francisco Bay Area was hit with a powerful 6.9 Magnitude Earthquake. The damage was extensive and included the collapse of a double deck freeway in Oakland that killed 42 people (2/3 of the people that died during this Earthquake). This event led to a re-examination of the area surrounding The Ferry Building and to the conclusion that the Embarcadero Freeway (as it was known) had to be torn down. 

A new renaissance of sorts took place here and the area changed from one in major decline to being now one of the most beautiful and popular spots in the City. If you are in this area there are a variety of things to do here besides the Ferry Building itself, including...

The Farmers' Market

There are 730 Farmers' Markets in California. I can think of about a dozen in San Francisco alone. One of the most famous (and picturesque) ones takes place here, in front (and in the back) of the Ferry Building each Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. You can find everything you want from flavors of the south of the border to Oysters from Bodega Bay. Below, Angie shows some of her findings:

The Ferry Building Farmer's Market may not the best Farmers Market in the City (that honor goes to The Alemany Farmers' Market) nor the cheapest, yet there is something wonderful about being able to grab a bite to eat on a clear sunny day next to one of the piers and look out into the Bay to spot the Ferries going under the Bay Bridge taking people out to Oakland and Alameda. You can also head across the street to Justin Herman Plaza and sit down at the steps of Vallancourt Fountain and watch tourists ride the Historic F Street Car down towards Fisherman's Wharf while you enjoy a grilled Cheese Sandwich from Cowgirl Creamery.

Other things you can do here include playing Bocce Ball, checking out the Admission Free Street Car Museum or heading into the Embarcadero Center Complex where you can shop til you drop if that's your kind of thing. If you happen to be here in December do not miss the Holiday Ice Rink at Justin Herman Plaza and if you are here in February definitely try not to miss The Valentine's Day Pillow Fight! (pictures from last year).

 Pier 14

East of the Ferry Building you will encounter Pier 14. Here you will be able to find some of the most beautiful and unadulterated views of the bay. I need to mention this because this whole area (from Pier 14 down to Pier 22 1/2) is currently in danger of losing its beautiful vistas so that it can accomodate the Yachts of a few rich cats for the 2013 America's Cup (see link below on Rincon Point Open Basin). In the meantime however, this is the perfect spot to relax, read a book and enjoy some sun and sea breeze. 

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   Dolores Park

What does Dolores Park have to do with The Ferry Building. The answer to that is "absolutely nothing". I have to say that I'm biased toward this place because first of all it is in the Mission (my home) and second it serves as the type of place you will often find me enjoying a picnic, a live performance, a movie in the park or simply taking a nice siesta on a Sunday afternoon. On this particular day Dolores Park felt right after spending the whole morning eating all kinds of delicious foods from the Farmers' Market. Thus we conclude day two of 49 not with a bang but with a siesta. Until tomorrow.

For more information on the Ferry Building (and Dolores Park) follow the links below:

Madison Square Garden Tower

Catedral De Sevilla

Loma Prieta Earthquake - Damage in Oakland

The Ferry Building - The (short) History

Waterfront History

Removal of The Embarcadero Freeway Video

Embarcadero Center

Rincon Point Open Basin in Danger (East of Pier 14)

Wiki Dolores Park

DAY ONE - The Dogpatch

Friday, August 12

The Dogpatch

Why explore the micro neighborhoods of San Francisco?

According to The San Francisco Chamber of Commerce there are 48 different neighborhoods in San Francisco. If you have spent a little time in The City you will know that there actually are closer to 100. What about places like the TenderNob? (where the Tenderloin and Nob Hill meet) or Baja Noe? (the stretch on Guerrero where Noe Valley and The Mission intersect). We have The Mint Slope (where Market runs through the Federal Mint Building), Valencia Bottoms (Valencia from 15th down to Market), La Lengua (the stretch On Mission St from Cesar Chavez to 30th) and FolSoMa (Folsom between 7th and 8th). As a San Franciscan it is fascinating to see these Microhoods pop up here and there and see how they serve as a statement of individuality for the people that inhabit them. So, I decided to start this project with one of the oldest Microhoods in the City and examine how it is currently experiencing changes that may be the inevitable result of progress. This neighborhood is The Dogpatch.

 Where is the Dogpatch?

Located east of Potrero Hill, the Dogpatch is roughly bordered by Mariposa St and 23rd St to the north and south as well as Pier 70 and the 280 freeway to the east and west. The Dogpatch could be considered the original live work mixed space of San Francisco. It has always been a thriving family neighborhood with the heavy industry aspects only a stone's throw distance away (over on Pier 70 and Potrero Point). The area immediately south of The Dogpatch was once known as Butchertown. The story goes that the scraps from all the meat packing factories were thrown over to this side of town and that attracted a lot of wild animals including wild dogs, hence the name The Dogpatch. The Dogpatch has been around since the 1850's. It escaped the 1906 San Francisco Earthquake and Fire and has remained virtually unchanged for 100 years, yet this area is now undergoing one of it's greatest transformations to date.

The Changes

North of The Dogpatch is Mission Bay, the fastest growing and newest neighborhood of San Francisco. Mission Bay's exponential growth (thanks to the many Biotechnology companies that have moved in over the last couple of years) is leading to the growth (and some fear, gentrification) of the Dogpatch. People are worried that this will become The Marina of The East (one of SF's yuppiest neighborhoods) and lose the flavor and grittiness that makes The Dogpatch unique. In an effort to preserve its history The Dogpatch has been designated a Historical Neighborhood, thus restricting what kind of development can occur on this area. 
 

Exploring The Dogpatch

After coercing my friend Misty into joining me into my very first outing, we took a nice drive over to 22nd Street, the heart of The Dogpatch. You will find everything here from coffee shops, wine bars, restaurants, and retail stores.

We first visited Rickshaw Bagworks. We were lucky enough to meet Founder Mark Dwight during our visit and he offered us a tour of his factory. Five minutes with Mark and you can see how passionate he is about what he does and about  the company he created, all the while trying to convey the importance of doing things locally and in a sustainable manner.

Continue along 22nd and you will see a large yellow building. This is Piccino Restaurant and Coffee Bar. Really overpriced and nothing particularly remarkable about it, I still was able to go in and get my Latte on. 

We had better luck just across the street with Just For You Cafe for some tasty Beignets (and also some spicy Mexican Food)

I was still craving something else and alas, my answer came in the form of Ice Cream. Mr and Mrs Miscellaneous has been at this locale for a little over a year (3rd and 22nd) but it has already ranked among the best Ice Cream places in the City (up there with Mitchells, Bi-Rite and Humphry Slocombe). The Rosemary and Olive Oil Ice Scream was delicious. (yes, really)

Other notable places to visit on The Dogpatch are Serpentine on 3rd and 22nd (for a good brunch or a tasty burger) and The Dogpatch Saloon, which has a very vibrant Jazz Scene on Sunday afternoons.

While you are here, stroll down the Hell's Angels Motorcycle Clubhouse made famous by Hunter S. Thompson's novel Hell's Angels: The Strange and Terrible Saga of The Outlaw Motorcycle Gangs. This book did not sit well with The Hells Angels but it is a quick and entertaining read. More on Hunter S. Thompson later.

Potrero Point

Cross 3rd St and head toward the waterfront and you will find yourself on what was once the neighborhood of Irish Hill (on Potrero Point). All that remains of these area is a small serpentine hill (California's State Rock) after the shipyard expansion tore down all the shacks and hotels built for sailors in the 1800s. 

Continue down Illinois and you will find the decayingly beautiful buildings that were once part of Pier 70 (pictured below). This area is expected to become a new hub for restaurants and retail in days to come.   

For more information on the Dogpatch follow the links below:

Pier 70

The History of The Dogpatch

The New York Times Discovers The Dogpatch

Rickshaw Bags

Interview with Mark Dwight - Rickshaw Bags Founder

Piccino Cafe and Coffee Bar

Just For You

Thompson confronted by Hells Angels Video



SAN FRANCISCO

When I decided to write a blog about San francisco I was struck by how difficult a task this would be. My intention has always been to give San Francisco a fair and just representation. I thought of the quote by Ibn Arabi that says "you cannot scoop up the whole sea with a jug, but whatever you scoop up is also the sea". Well, this blog is my small metaphorical jug and I hope that over the next 49 days I will be able to give you a taste of what makes this place so special for me.

To understand San Francisco is to appreciate not just its beauty but also its uniqueness, music, food, art, people and history. It is to know that there isn't just one San Francisco but indeed that there are many. It is to acknowledge that all of these different variations are in a constant state of change. San Francisco is a 7 miles by 7 miles Grid that represents a microcosm of the United States but is also a strange and demanding creature of its own. San Francisco is poetic and cosmopolitan. It is bohemian and highly spiritual. It is a tourists trap but also a place where life is vibrant, immediate and palpable. Like Rome we were born in the hills. Like ancient Greece we are a city of villages. Like Paris we are a place to get lost, fall in love and learn what it means to be alive.

For all intents and purposes this blog is about me and about My San Francisco. This City has changed for me from a once cold and foreign place to a now faithful and patient friend. Like many people here I am a transplant, someone who came here looking for something that cannot be fully explained nor understood but that can only be found among so many others who have fallen together and who have also chosen to call this place home. 

Please understand this blog is not about history or architecture (although at times they are aspects that need to be included for depth and added perspective). It isn't about listing facts or telling you things that can be found with a quick Google search or in a Wikipedia entry. These next 49 Days will be 49 days of experience and everything that that implies. It is an experiment and as such nothing that happens here is a sure thing except perhaps that I will share all things that need to be seen and felt in San Francisco in the best way possible.

Living here has been the simplest and clearest time of my life yet it is impossible to convey in words what this city is to me. I did not leave my heart in San Francisco. San Francisco IS my heart. Maybe at the end of these 49 Days this blog may encourage some of you to come and discover your own personal San Francisco and in the process perhaps become part of its narrative. So please come back often, comment on the postings and come and join me on a stroll (or a hike) through the Streets of San Francisco. You won’t be disappointed.